When I bought the car, it was missing a skidplate. A skidplate has a number of purposes, like protection, keeping dirt out, but also improving underbody aerodynamics and improving cooling and fuel economy of the car. A car is cooled by pulling air through your radiator (by the flow of lower pressure air under your car), instead of purely relying on high pressure on the front of the car.
I bought this Rezaw-Plast one via Motointegrator.de and it had a very good price (33 euro is a steal!). Fitment is very good, aligns well with the stock mounting holes.
Partnr: RP151901 / 151901 / 8634813 / 30741855 / 8624664 / 30741968
When fitting the 3″ BSR downpipe, I needed a new exhaust. As a temporary solution, I bought a standard exhaust kit (resonator and backbox) and modified the midpipe (cut the resonator out). It sounds quite nice for a default exhaust, but cannot beat a stainless exhaust 🙂
To upgrade the performance on any turbo powered car, you need “breating” upgrades. The car needs to inhale better (intake modifications), but also exhale better (exhaust modifications).
The most important component in the exhale process is the downpipe, the first pipe after the turbo. Upgrading this to a larger diameter, will allow for quicker turbo spool, which helps in scavenging but also in building boost.
As a pleasant side effect, the exhaust note will also be more throaty! The S80 has very limited options on paper, but I was able to buy and fit this with help from J&D Auto Onderdelen, who helped me tremendously in the pre-sales process (making sure that everything would fit). I can highly recommend them!
It’s a quite expensive upgrade, but well worth it.
It’s highly recommended to get some new nuts for securing the downpipe.
Old vs new, look into the differences in the diameter of the neck.
I had pretty big plans for the S80, shooting for a 270bhp instead of the 200bhp that the 2.4T has normally. You need an upgrade turbo for this, which I sourced from a T5 model, which has 250bhp bone stock. The swap would involve the TD04HL-13T to TD04HL-16T or 13T to 16T for short.
Fitment is pretty straightforward, but the coolant lines run differently, and this was quite a hassle as information on the internet seems very scarce. I found some, but needed some creativity as the build progressed.
I was also planning to mount the later “R” series manifold, but decided to sell it, as the Japanifold would give much better sound and equal performance.
In the end, I sold the 16T and mounted the 13T, saving the money up for something else. I needed to adjust the car a little bit, and according to the max MAF values, it makes about 240-245bhp, which is awesome.
It’s a totally different car from when I first bought it, that’s for sure!
The TD04HL-16T with the R-manifold
The TD04HL-13T vs TD04HL-16T
Modifications needed for fitting the coolant lines
Rubbing will occur here
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