Cleaned & replaced the rubbers on the blue 380cc Siemens Deka injectors. The rubbers tend to get hard and brittle due to heat, so very important to replace these in time.
I will probably replace the injectors somewhere in the near future for peace of mind.
When I bought the Mini, it had reached the 160.000km or 100.000 miles mark. This is a milestone in the Mini Cooper S service history, because it means that you need to service the Eaton M45 supercharger (new fresh supercharger oil etc etc).
I saw the episode from Wheeler Dealers and felt confident. It was a lot of work, but fortunately it wasn’t complex. As this isn’t my daily driver, I meant I could take the time.
Eaton M45 supercharger on the work bench
The new Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV) vs the old
Dirty throttle body!
Finally cracked the supercharger open to allow for visual inspection of the gears (they looked good!)
I also replaced the supercharger coupler with a new oil filled nylon coupler (in red).
Bought a flip key on Aliexpress and went to the key service to get it working. Looks much better and takes less space in pockets etc.
Highly recommended modification!
Repaired / cleaned the PCV circuit as I saw a lot of oil in the pressure circuit (also see my previous post: https://www.ducked.nl/blog-entries/volvo-s80-2-4t-dirty-clean-turbo-coldside/ ).
Did a little research and the PCV system is almost always the culprit for such issues.
Decided to buy a complete system although ended up cleaning the existing system and only replacing the oil seperator. The tubing was quite some work, I will save that for another time.
As a lot of older Volvo’s, my S80 showed the cumbersome “Alarmservice needed” message. I decided to search for a fix instead of buying a new one, which costs about €280 – €300, which is a lot of money.
The process is very simple, slicing open the siren, disconnecting the battery pack and plugging in the new battery pack. The hard part is to remove the security bolt, I used a angle grinder and then tapping it out. I used a normal bolt when I mounted the siren again.
I bought it here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/152151139597
S60, S70, V70, S80 & XC Series
Type: Varta button cells
Rating: 7.2V, 320mAh
P/N: GP320BVH6A6, N2H280
Finish: Green wrapped
Connector: Mini-Volvo connector
Compatible with 8637399, 8622268, 9452709 & 9162941 siren modules
Cable length: 60mm
I noticed some strange behaviour when lifting the throttle and decided to service the CBV aka Compressor Bypass Valve. I was right, car drives a lot better after replacing it with a fresh CBV / DV (Diverter Valve).
I went with an aftermarket TRITDT K5T09671.
Krachtig filmpje over telefoongebruik achter het stuur. Er is geen reden om je telefoon te gebruiken als je een voertuig bestuurd.
Meer info: http://www.itcanwait.com/
Deze keer even geen fotografisch gerelateerde Post, maar een technisch georiënteerde Post. Na lang zoeken, veel reboots, forums lezen & driver installaties voltooien kwam vandaag het ultieme moment. Werkend 5.1 geluid uit mn Creative Audigy 2 ZS!
Creative heeft binnen korte tijd een slechte naam opgebouwd door de slechte driverondersteuning na de lancering van Windows Vista. Voor de lancering van Vista was het al geruime tijd brak te noemen, maar door essentiële veranderingen m.b.t. geluidsreproductie & aansturing binnen Vista, werd het nog erger dan het al was…De albekende Soundblaster Live! werd afgescheept & op het moment van schrijven worden er alleen nieuwe drivers ontwikkeld voor hun nieuwste telg: de X-Fi.
Dit houdt voor een hele grote groep Audigy gebruikers in dat ze blijven zitten met half werkende drivers (geld ook zelfs voor X-Fi gebruikers) & het moeten betalen om EAX werkend te krijgen in Vista. Enfin…
Ik ben al geruime tijd in het bezit van een Speedlink Medusa koptelefoon, een zogenaamde Gamers koptelefoon die 5.1 geluid kan reproduceren. Ik was altijd sceptisch t.o.v. dit concept, hoe kan een echt 5.1 speakersetje nou geëvenaard worden door een koptelefoon? Na aankoop werd ik werkelijk van mn stoel geblazen, de geluidsreproductie is erg goed, afgezien van het feit dat de bass wat harder mag.
De Medusa heeft namelijk een mooie eigenschap dat als binnen Windows een signaal wordt verstuurd naar de Subwoofer, de koptelefoon dit signaal uitfiltert en de koptelefoon laat trillen. De eerste keer dat ik het meemaakte schrok ik er even van, in de de draad van de koptelefoon zit een kastje verwerkt met 4 volumeknopjes nl.
Ik wist dus in eerste instantie niet waar de laatste voor diende, totdat ik in Toca Race Driver 3 over een curbstone reed en de trillingen gewoon voelde! Geniaal 
! Wat ik wilde zeggen is dat deze feature niet meer werkt sinds ik Vista gebruik, wat dus te maken heeft met de driver voor de Audigy 2 ZS. De rest van het stuk zal ik in het Engels schrijven, omdat over de hele wereld wordt gezocht naar een oplossing voor dit probleem.
If you can’t read Dutch, here’s a short summary: Creative has bad driver support, Vista launch made it worse, Speedlink Medusa vibration doesn’t work because of bad drivers. That’s about it in the above paragraphs 🙂
I use the following components/software
As we all know, the driver support from Creative has been very sucky. I’ve been using the X-Fi drivers for quite some time now. Although they work ok, I started missing something in the sound reproduction. I then remembered playing Toca Race Driver 3 on Windows XP. When I drover over a curbstone, the Medusa started rumbling. It scared me in the beginning, but when I did it again I began to understand what was happening. This feature really adds to the user/gamer experience, so it simply can’t be missed! Today I finally found an solution for this (really) annoying problem Read on!
Uninstall all the Creative Audigy drivers
If above = YES, reboot your system
If above = NO, continue below
After the reboot it’s time to install the driver.
If you see a message regarding searching for new drivers for your Audigy, click “Ask me again later” and continue reading below.
After the driver installation, the biggest step will be correctly configuring it.
You should’ve heared the Vista startup sound by now, so things are looking good 😉 We’re almost there!
You also have to check the Sound settings from Vista itself:
You will only see Mono or Stereo, this is why it’s so important to untick the option to Synchronize the settings with Control Panel.
If you haven’t already installed the Audigy Tools, load the ISO (with Daemon Tools/Alcohol/etc) from Stage 1 & fire up the installer with Windows XP compatibility (I’ve read this somewhere, but forgot where & why…).
It is of great importance you only check some tools which you think will be needed. Also, uncheck Windows Audio Driver, or you will have to start all over again… The most vital is THX Setup Console, which allows us to test the vibration properly & configure the settings needed for vibration, all bundled in one tool.
Some fine tuning is needed, before we can test & enjoy 😉
Almost there, hang in there 😎
Check the default settings
Before you are going to test the settings, grab your Medusa & check the Volume settings before you’re going to inflict some hearing damage. I have mine configured with the following settings:
The reason Vib Vol is at it’s maximum, because I haven’t figured out a way to boost the Subwoofer signal. Other Audigy/X-Fi owners have the option “+15 Db Gain” in Bass Management or so, but I haven’t found this option yet. If you do, please let me know!
To test the settings:
I have tested it in Gears of War, what a good game. The added vibration makes it even better imho! I hope this guide will also work for you.
Please let me know if this helps! Happy gaming 😉