Tag: service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW – Injector Service

Cleaned & replaced the rubbers on the blue 380cc Siemens Deka injectors. The rubbers tend to get hard and brittle due to heat, so very important to replace these in time.

I will probably replace the injectors somewhere in the near future for peace of mind.

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Injector service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW – Servicing the Eaton M45 supercharger

When I bought the Mini, it had reached the 160.000km or 100.000 miles mark. This is a milestone in the Mini Cooper S service history, because it means that you need to service the Eaton M45 supercharger (new fresh supercharger oil etc etc).

I saw the episode from Wheeler Dealers and felt confident. It was a lot of work, but fortunately it wasn’t complex. As this isn’t my daily driver, I meant I could take the time.

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Supercharger Service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Supercharger Service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Supercharger Service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Supercharger Service

Eaton M45 supercharger on the work bench

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Supercharger Service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Supercharger Service

The new Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV) vs the old

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Supercharger Service

Dirty throttle body!

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Supercharger Service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Supercharger Service

Finally cracked the supercharger open to allow for visual inspection of the gears (they looked good!)

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Eaton M45 service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Eaton M45 service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Eaton M45 service

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Eaton M45 service

I also replaced the supercharger coupler with a new oil filled nylon coupler (in red).

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Oil Filled Nylon Supercharger Coupler

Volvo S80 2.4T Old Key to Flip Key

Bought a flip key on Aliexpress and went to the key service to get it working. Looks much better and takes less space in pockets etc.

Highly recommended modification!

Volvo S80 2.4T Old Key to Flip Key

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV DIY Repair / Service

Repaired / cleaned the PCV circuit as I saw a lot of oil in the pressure circuit (also see my previous post: https://www.ducked.nl/blog-entries/volvo-s80-2-4t-dirty-clean-turbo-coldside/ ).

Did a little research and the PCV system is almost always the culprit for such issues.

Decided to buy a complete system although ended up cleaning the existing system and only replacing the oil seperator. The tubing was quite some work, I will save that for another time.

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair

Volvo S80 2.4T Clean Valves :)

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair

Volvo S80 2.4T Alarm Siren Module fix

As a lot of older Volvo’s, my S80 showed the cumbersome “Alarmservice needed” message. I decided to search for a fix instead of buying a new one, which costs about €280 – €300, which is a lot of money.

The process is very simple, slicing open the siren, disconnecting the battery pack and plugging in the new battery pack. The hard part is to remove the security bolt, I used a angle grinder and then tapping it out. I used a normal bolt when I mounted the siren again.

I bought it here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/152151139597

S60, S70, V70, S80 & XC Series
Type: Varta button cells
Rating: 7.2V, 320mAh
P/N: GP320BVH6A6, N2H280
Finish: Green wrapped
Connector: Mini-Volvo connector
Compatible with 8637399, 8622268, 9452709 & 9162941 siren modules
Cable length: 60mm

Volvo S80 2.4T Siren Module repair

Volvo S80 2.4T Fitting a new Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV)

I noticed some strange behaviour when lifting the throttle and decided to service the CBV aka Compressor Bypass Valve. I was right, car drives a lot better after replacing it with a fresh CBV / DV (Diverter Valve).

I went with an aftermarket TRITDT K5T09671.

Volvo S80 2.4T New TRITDT Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV) repair kit

Volvo S80 2.4T New TRITDT Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV) vs Old

Volvo S80 2.4T New TRITDT Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV) vs Old

Volvo S80 2.4T Fitting a new Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV)

Dont text & drive. #ItCanWait

Krachtig filmpje over telefoongebruik achter het stuur. Er is geen reden om je telefoon te gebruiken als je een voertuig bestuurd.

Meer info: http://www.itcanwait.com/

Speedlink Medusa With Creative Audigy 2 ZS In Windows Vista Fixed!

Deze keer even geen fotografisch gerelateerde Post, maar een technisch georiënteerde Post. Na lang zoeken, veel reboots, forums lezen & driver installaties voltooien kwam vandaag het ultieme moment. Werkend 5.1 geluid uit mn Creative Audigy 2 ZS!

Bad Creative…

Creative heeft binnen korte tijd een slechte naam opgebouwd door de slechte driverondersteuning na de lancering van Windows Vista. Voor de lancering van Vista was het al geruime tijd brak te noemen, maar door essentiële veranderingen m.b.t. geluidsreproductie & aansturing binnen Vista, werd het nog erger dan het al was…De albekende Soundblaster Live! werd afgescheept & op het moment van schrijven worden er alleen nieuwe drivers ontwikkeld voor hun nieuwste telg: de X-Fi.

Dit houdt voor een hele grote groep Audigy gebruikers in dat ze blijven zitten met half werkende drivers (geld ook zelfs voor X-Fi gebruikers) & het moeten betalen om EAX werkend te krijgen in Vista. Enfin…

Speedlink Medusa Pro Gamer Edition

Ik ben al geruime tijd in het bezit van een Speedlink Medusa koptelefoon, een zogenaamde Gamers koptelefoon die 5.1 geluid kan reproduceren. Ik was altijd sceptisch t.o.v. dit concept, hoe kan een echt 5.1 speakersetje nou geëvenaard worden door een koptelefoon? Na aankoop werd ik werkelijk van mn stoel geblazen, de geluidsreproductie is erg goed, afgezien van het feit dat de bass wat harder mag.

De Medusa heeft namelijk een mooie eigenschap dat als binnen Windows een signaal wordt verstuurd naar de Subwoofer, de koptelefoon dit signaal uitfiltert en de koptelefoon laat trillen. De eerste keer dat ik het meemaakte schrok ik er even van, in de de draad van de koptelefoon zit een kastje verwerkt met 4 volumeknopjes nl.

  • Cen Vol (Center Volume)
  • Front Vol(Front Volume)
  • Rear Vol (Rear Volume)
  • Vib Vol (Vibration Volume)

Ik wist dus in eerste instantie niet waar de laatste voor diende, totdat ik in Toca Race Driver 3 over een curbstone reed en de trillingen gewoon voelde! Geniaal :mrgreen: ! Wat ik wilde zeggen is dat deze feature niet meer werkt sinds ik Vista gebruik, wat dus te maken heeft met de driver voor de Audigy 2 ZS. De rest van het stuk zal ik in het Engels schrijven, omdat over de hele wereld wordt gezocht naar een oplossing voor dit probleem.

Creative Audigy 2 ZS + Speedlink Medusa + Vista

If you can’t read Dutch, here’s a short summary: Creative has bad driver support, Vista launch made it worse, Speedlink Medusa vibration doesn’t work because of bad drivers. That’s about it in the above paragraphs 🙂

I use the following components/software

  • Creative Audigy 2 ZS
  • Speedlink Medusa Pro Gamer Edition
  • Windows Vista Ultimate (32Bit)

As we all know, the driver support from Creative has been very sucky. I’ve been using the X-Fi drivers for quite some time now. Although they work ok, I started missing something in the sound reproduction. I then remembered playing Toca Race Driver 3 on Windows XP. When I drover over a curbstone, the Medusa started rumbling. It scared me in the beginning, but when I did it again I began to understand what was happening. This feature really adds to the user/gamer experience, so it simply can’t be missed! Today I finally found an solution for this (really) annoying problem :mrgreen: Read on!

Stage 1 : Preparing

  1. Download the SBA2_PCDrvBeta_LB_2_08_0002 driver here (it has full OpenAL support)
  2. Download the Unofficial Audigy Series Software CD here

Uninstall all the Creative Audigy drivers

  • Click Start
  • Click Control Panel
  • Click Programs and Features
  • Uninstall Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS
  • Check if the Speaker icon in your Traybar (bottom right) has a red cross near it

If above = YES, reboot your system
If above = NO, continue below

  • Open System Properties via “Windows Key + Pause/Break” or right click the System icon on your desktop & click Properties
  • Click Device Manager
  • Expand Sound, video and game controllers by clicking “+”
  • Right click Creative Audigy 2 ZS or something alike
  • Click Uninstall
  • Tick “Delete the driver software for this device
  • Reboot your system

After the reboot it’s time to install the driver.

Stage 2 : Installing The Driver

If you see a message regarding searching for new drivers for your Audigy, click “Ask me again later” and continue reading below.

  • Open Windows Explorer
  • Navigate to the folder where you’ve saved the driver in Stage 1
  • Run the Installer
  • Reboot when asked

After the driver installation, the biggest step will be correctly configuring it.

Stage 3 : Configuring

You should’ve heared the Vista startup sound by now, so things are looking good 😉 We’re almost there!

  • Click Start
  • Click All Programs
  • Click Creative
  • Click Creative Audio Console (Audio Console is mandatory!)
  • Click tab Speakers
  • Select 5.1 Speakers from the dropdown menu
  • Make sure the Synchronize with Microsoft Windows Control Panel is unticked or it won’t work (very very very important!!!)
  • You can check the other tabs if you like, then click Close

Ducked.nl - Creative Audio Console

You also have to check the Sound settings from Vista itself:

  • Right click the Speaker icon in the tray
  • Click Playback Devices
  • Click Speakers
  • Click Configure

You will only see Mono or Stereo, this is why it’s so important to untick the option to Synchronize the settings with Control Panel.

  • Click Cancel
  • Click Properties
  • Click tab Tone & adjust to your liking (most likely the values will be like -192.0 / -96.0 / 0.0 dB, it doesn’t pose a problem though )
  • Click tab Levels
  • I have set Play Control & Wave to about 80%
  • Click tab Advanced (16 bit, 48000hz (DVD Quality, both check boxes are ticked)
  • Click OK

If you haven’t already installed the Audigy Tools, load the ISO (with Daemon Tools/Alcohol/etc) from Stage 1 & fire up the installer with Windows XP compatibility (I’ve read this somewhere, but forgot where & why…).

  • Open Windows Explorer (Cancel the installer if you have Autoplay enabled)
  • Right click Setup.exe
  • Click Properties
  • Click tab Compatibility
  • Tick Run this program in compatibility mode for:
  • Choose Windows XP (Service Pack 2)
  • Click OK
  • Double click Setup.exe
  • Choose Region + Language
  • Click Next
  • Uncheck Creative Mediasource
  • Click Next
  • Choose Custom Installation

It is of great importance you only check some tools which you think will be needed. Also, uncheck Windows Audio Driver, or you will have to start all over again… The most vital is THX Setup Console, which allows us to test the vibration properly & configure the settings needed for vibration, all bundled in one tool.

  • After the installation, click Finish
  • Reboot isn’t necessary! So don’t do it 🙄
  • Click Start
  • Click Creative
  • Click Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS
  • Click THX Setup Console

Some fine tuning is needed, before we can test & enjoy 😉

Stage 4 : Fine Tuning

Almost there, hang in there 😎

Check the default settings

  • Speaker Selection : 5.1 Speakers
  • Digital Output Sampling Frequency : 48 kHz
  • Front Center Channel Position : Below Monitor (Don’t know if it makes a difference…)
  • Click tab Calibration
  • Adjust to your liking
  • Click tab Bass Management
  • Tick Enable Bass Redirection
  • Crossover Frequency: 200Hz
  • Subwoofer Level : 100%

Ducked.nl - Creative Audio Console

Before you are going to test the settings, grab your Medusa & check the Volume settings before you’re going to inflict some hearing damage. I have mine configured with the following settings:

  • Cen Vol : 3
  • Front Vol : 3
  • Rear Vol : 3
  • Vib Vol : 10

The reason Vib Vol is at it’s maximum, because I haven’t figured out a way to boost the Subwoofer signal. Other Audigy/X-Fi owners have the option “+15 Db Gain” in Bass Management or so, but I haven’t found this option yet. If you do, please let me know!

Stage 5 : Test & Enjoy!

To test the settings:

  • Tick Enable Bass Test Noise
  • Click the Subwoofer in the picture (big black box in the top)
  • Enjoy the Vibration!

I have tested it in Gears of War, what a good game. The added vibration makes it even better imho! I hope this guide will also work for you.

Please let me know if this helps! Happy gaming 😉