Tag: diy

Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Supercharger Idler Pulley

I noticed that the supercharger idler pulley had quite some dirt accumulation on it and also felt a bit of play, so decided to replace it with a new pulley. I made the right decision as the grease was escaping and therefore attracting the dirt.

Runs smooth again with the new pulley. When I will upgrade with billet pulleys, I will also replace the tensioner itself.

Old (+dirty) and new pulley



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Solving AirMatic Issues

I was suprised with this look, which is a horror type of situation for every CLS owner with Airmatic suspension. In the end I tracked the issue down to a leaking compressor air line (to the valve body), which solved the issue.




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Power Steering Reservoir & Fluid

The power steering reservoir on the W211 & W219 platform have a filter built in. This filter is not serviceable, meaning that you need to replace the reservoir if you also want to replace the filter.

I took the liberty to replace the reservoir/filter and also flush the complete system and put fresh new synthetic oil in.

I used a vacuumpump to get most of the old red mineral fluid out. Then replaced the reservoir and used the “lock-to-lock” steering motion to pump all the old fluid out. Temporarily cap off the return line on the new reservoir and extend the return line to any suitable container for the old fluid.

I used about 2 liters to flush the system and 1 liter to fill the system. Febi Bilstein CHF 11-S Nr. 06161 is the correct fluid for this system.

Steering goes noticeably lighter after this service!

Old fluid coming out
Almost done flushing (fluid is becoming more green/blue-ish)
Made this shot after removing the reservoir. It clearly shows why replacing the serpentine belt is a bit of a hassle there…



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Servicing The Supercharger Oil

One of the most common overlooked service items, is replacing the supercharger oil. The gears of the supercharger spin very fast and need proper lubrication and cooling. Because it spins so fast, it requires a special type of oil: Mobil Jet Oil II (Synthetic Jet Engine Oil).

This oil is not that widely available to customers and also not very cheap. I used a 150ml syringe with some hose to extract the oil and fill it up again. It holds 150ml maximum, but you can never get all the oil out unless you remove the supercharger. I removed about 130ml, and put back the same amount in fresh oil.

Extracting the old oil
Used a plastic containter to hold the oil in, which makes it a lot easier



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Serpentine Belt

Replaced the serpentine belt, under the guise of “while I am in there”. It was quite a hassle, but unfortunately, I will do it again as this belt seems a little short to my liking. The tensioner has ample room to move this way, which is not how I like to see it.

I replaced it with a Dayco 6PK2440 belt if I am not mistaken.

New and old belt
Dayco belt in place



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Cleaning The Belly Pans

After changing the oil, I was left with 3 dirty belly pans. Actually, the first one was pretty clean. But the 2nd & 3rd were really dirty due to oil leaking and dirt accumulating on that oil.

But a good degreaser and pressure washer work wonders. I totally forgot to take ‘after” pictures, so you will have to believe me on this one 😉

1st belly pan (pretty clean)
2nd belly pan, which was quite dirty. nfortunately, it has 1 broken air diverter
3rd belly pan, this was really dirty!



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, My First Oil Change With LiquiMoly 5W40 High Tech

Performed the first oil change on the CLS55 with LiquiMoly High Tech Low Resistance 5W40 oil. Bought 2x 5 Liter canisters, as the big 5.4 Liter takes about 8.5 Liters of oil in total. Also added in 1.5 canister of LiquiMoly Ceratec, a well known working friction modifier.

List:

  • 2x 5 Liter LiquiMoly High Tec Low Resistance 5W40
  • 1x Mann Oil Filter HU718/5X
  • 2x Mercedes Oil Sump Plug A3529970032
  • 1x Katsu Oil Filter Wrench Set

This was my setup for the day, used 2 ramp, which has enough ground clearance.

This is how the oil filter looked. It was in a bad state, seems the previous owner skimped out on maintenance…The rubber O-rings especially were very old and worn.

The M113k engine has 2 sumps, a front scavenging sump and in the back the main sump. I saw a lot of oil leakage, most of it was due to the rocker covers as far as I could judge for now.

Front scavenging sump
Rear main sump
Putting the Katsu oil filter wrench to good use. I used a combination of a vacuumpump with the drain plugs to get most of the old oil out

Performed some other things “while I was in there”, but I will describe that in separate posts.




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Rear Differential Oil

1.5 Liter of 75W140 GL5 Differential oil (LiquiMoly) and 2x new filler caps for the rear differential. I didnt have the correct hex key, but a T70 torx also works. Will be doing this again in the near future, so all the old oil is replaced with new oil.

I used a big syringe (150ml), which actually worked out very well. I will always recommend using new plugs whenever you notice that the plugs look old.

Partnr: A3529970032
The old drain plug
The old filler plug on the drivers side

Draining the old rear differential oil

New shiny drain plug
New shiny filler plug



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Rocker Cover Gaskets

When I replaced the spark plugs, I noticed some massive oil seepage/leaks from both the rocker covers. I bought the original Mercedes liquid sealant for the breather chambers. I already read that this would be cumbersome, and that was no lie.

But it’s all in the preparation (degrease properly!) and take your time for that, because this is not something you want to do a couple of times.

OE Mercedes sealant partnr: A003989982010

I found out that a deep 18mm socket and 1/2″ extension enabled me to use a kit gun, essentially making the job way easier! If you look closely, you will see the setup in the back of the photo.

Happy to see that all looks well under the rocker covers 🙂




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing K&N Air Filters With OEM Paper Air Filters

Replaced the K&N drop-in filters with OEM paper filters (Febi Bilstein), as I prefer better filtration over a little more throughput. I don’t think I will notice the difference with my standard CLS55 AMG.




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Cabin Filter With Mann FreciousPlus Filter

Replaced the cabin filter as I did not know when it was last replaced. I was unaware that Mann had a new type of filter, which transcends the pollen and active carbon filter type.

Their FreciousPlus series is also anti-bacterial, making you stay as healthy as possible within your car 🙂 I used Mann FP3172 for the CLS55. As you can see, it needs to be replaced every year or 15.000km.




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing All 8 Coil Packs

After about 187.000km (or 17 years), the original coil packs are due for retirement in my garage 😉 Car seems to run a little better after placing the new coil packs!

Could also be placebo effect… 😉

Old dusty coil packs with oil leak
8 Brand spanking new coil packs, ready to be installed



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, New Vband Clamps For Non-Resonated Catback Exhaust

On of the previous owners clipped something, as the Vband clamps for the non-resonated catback were damaged and therefore leaking (a little bit).

I replaced both of them with brand new clamps, so the seal is airtight again!

Damaged Vband clamps (scraped & dented)



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing Rear Swaybar Links / Droplinks

The rear swaybar still had the original droplinks, so they were in dire need to be replaced. I replaced them with fresh new droplinks from Febi Bilstein. This tightens up the rear of the car a little bit. For maximum effect, I will need to overhaul the complete suspension (which I will be doing in time!)




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, LiquiMoly Injector Cleaner

As part of regular maintenance, bought some LiqiuMoly injection cleaner. Will probably be using this every now and then as preventative maintenance.




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, New Exhaust Clamp Secondary Cats

New exhaust clamp for the secondary cats as the original one had a rusted bolt which could snap at anytime.




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Meyle HD Gearbox Mount

Engine mounts are usually forgotten as a maintenance item, but not for me! I checked my options and found that Meyle had an upgraded mount in their product line. The upgraded series from Meyle are known as the “HD” series and they are OEM+ replacements.

I chose the Meyle HD gearbox mount to replace the factory Mercedes mount. Fitment 100% and the build quality looks to be very good. The front engine mounts will be replaced as well by Meyle mounts!

Meyle HD vs OE
Meyle HD vs OE



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Bonnet Struts

I don’t get people who live with worn old bonnet struts. They dont cost much and they make all the difference, especially if you work on your own car.

They were still the factory bonnet struts, so probably 17 years old.




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Flex / Giubo / Hardy Discs (Prop Shaft)

Noticed at a routine inspection that the prop shaft flex discs (also known as giubo or hardy discs) were showing quite some wear. After 17 years, that is to be expected. But to be honest, I thought they would have been replaced already.

Replaced them with Tedgum discs including new shiny bolts. Happy with the end result as I felt a more positive engage from the drivetrain. Job done!




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Airmatic Air Filter

Replaced the Airmatic air filter, which makes sure that dirt & debris stay out of the Airmatic system. Mercedes uses a fuel filter, repurposed as an air filter for this system. The partnumber is: WK 32/6 (Mann filter)

Old vs new
Old vs new
Old filter dissected, didnt look all that bad, considering it’s probably 17 years old



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Airmatic Compressor

With 186k kilometers on the clock and 17 years old, its good to start replacing parts as a preventative measure. After 17 years, rubber will be hard and brittle and electrical components might show fatigue or arent as “snappy’ as 17 years ago.

The Airmatic compressor (and relay) works hard to keep the 4 air springs inflated and after 17 year, its time for a rebuild or a pension 😉 I chose rebuild (and pension), so I always have a good one as spare. For good measure, also swap the Airmatic relay!

The Airmatic compressor on the drivers side, right behind the bumper.
New vs Old Wabco compressor
The new compressor in place. Unfortunately, the new compressor has a slightly different layout, so I worked around that by extending the air line. I used reinforced 4mm ID vacuum line to get it to work
Unfortunately, normal silicone boost/vacuum line is not suitable for 10-14 BAR working pressure 🙂 It went bang on me!



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Repairing Broken Cable Boot Latch

Broken cables in the rear hatch. Its a common issue on the C219 W219 platform (probably also on W211 platform).

Functions that ceased to function were:

  • Boot handle
  • Auto Close button
  • Lock button
  • Boot light (intermittent)



Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing Old Worn Center Caps

The wheelcaps had seen better days and have been replaced with fresh ones. These are the small mods/repairs which actually make a bigger difference than one might expect.




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing The Rear Air Springs / Bags

Changed the air springs on the CLS55, just as a precaution. With 186.000 kms on the clock, that is not a bad thing to do. Replaced them with eBay units.

They are holding very well so far 🙂 !

Partnrs:
Left: A 211 320 13 25 / A2113201325
Right: A 211 320 12 25 / A2113201225




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, How To Replace The TCU

When I searched for a step-by-step video for replacing the Transmission Control Unit (TCU), I could not find one for the CLS. Therefore I created one myself, to help out others who want/need to swap out this unit.

My tuned unit was stamped with:

Siemens A0355457532
KEIN Seriensteuergerat
Speedshift+ Race
Ubersetzung i=2.65

Visit my YouTube channel here: https://www.youtube.com/ndphotonl




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, New Intake Pipes (Gold Tape Heatwrap)

Noticed that one of the plastic intake tubes was broken, so I replaced them both. Fortunately, the intake pipes only costs 11 euro per piece, which is a steal!

I added gold plated tape, to fend of radiating heat and keep the incoming air as cool as possible. Took quite some time and effort, but I am happy with the end result and how it looks in the engine bay.

Broken hose Vs new hose
Work in progress on the gold plated tape

See all CLS55 AMG pictures here in my Google Photos album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6SP5PFAUXCqanoSX9





Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Upgrade To LED License Plate Lights

Converted the license plate lights to LED units (thanks to Aliexpress). Instantly gives the car a more modern look. I applied some dark window tint film, to tone down the intensity. Too much LED light gives off a “chav” image, which is something I want to prevent at all times.

License Plate LED Lights not tinted yet in this picture

See all CLS55 AMG pictures here in my Google Photos album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6SP5PFAUXCqanoSX9




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Replacing the Supercharger Pulley Bearing (Nachi)

I decided to replace the supercharger pulley bearing with a fresh new Japan made Nachi bearing. One of the easiest way is the hot/cold method, where you heat up the pulley and freeze the bearing itself. This results in the bearing sliding into the pulley with relative ease.

I could’ve also used my workshop press, but I didn’t want to force it in. I followed this guide for it:

Some more pictures:

All CLS55 AMG pictures here in my Google Photos album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6SP5PFAUXCqanoSX9




Mercedes CLS55 AMG W219, Aligning Door Windows

The CLS has a common issue with the window not sealing properly against the door frame. When this happens, water and dirt/debris is able to get in the cabin. But it also introduces a lot of wind noise, which is not something which fits the luxury of this car.

To fix it, you need to undo 1 bolt in the door. I believe its a 10mm bolt which enables you to adjust the tilt of the window. Mine needed tilt more to allow for proper sealing again. I used a 1/4″ ratchet with a long extension. Its recommended to remove the trim to see what you are doing.

The bolt is accessible through the round rubber grommet in the door, but is hard to locate without removing the upper door trim.

This is a great, free fix!

All CLS55 AMG pictures here in my Google Photos album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/6SP5PFAUXCqanoSX9




Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Heatwrapped Stainless Exhaust

I heatwrapped the new stainless steel Gravity Performance catback exhaust. Unfortunately I ran out of titanium heatwrap, so I ordered some more (black) and finished the job.

It will help with scavenging and is a supporting mod for extracting more horsepower and torque from the Mini.

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Heatwrapped Stainless Exhaust

Mini Cooper S R53 JCW Heatwrapped Stainless Exhaust


Volvo S80 2.4T Plastidipped Grill

I wanted a cleaner look for the front grill and decided to use plastidip instead of the carbon wrap. It came out great and suits the black S80 very well.

I used Motip Removable Coating instead of classic Plastidip and it holds very well till this day.

Volvo S80 2.4T Plastidipped Grille

Volvo S80 2.4T Plastidipped Grille

Volvo S80 2.4T Plastidipped Grille

Volvo S80 2.4T Plastidipped Grille

Volvo S80 2.4T Plastidipped Grille

Also repainted the front trim with bumperspray (which didn’t hold by the way).

Volvo S80 2.4T Repainted Trim


Volvo S80 2.4T BSR Tuning 3″ Downpipe

To upgrade the performance on any turbo powered car, you need “breating” upgrades. The car needs to inhale better (intake modifications), but also exhale better (exhaust modifications).

The most important component in the exhale process is the downpipe, the first pipe after the turbo. Upgrading this to a larger diameter, will allow for quicker turbo spool, which helps in scavenging but also in building boost.

As a pleasant side effect, the exhaust note will also be more throaty! The S80 has very limited options on paper, but I was able to buy and fit this with help from J&D Auto Onderdelen, who helped me tremendously in the pre-sales process (making sure that everything would fit). I can highly recommend them!

It’s a quite expensive upgrade, but well worth it.

BSR 3" Downpipe with Sports Catalyst

BSR 3" Downpipe with Sports Catalyst

BSR 3" Downpipe with Sports Catalyst

BSR 3" Downpipe with Sports Catalyst

Volvo S80 2.4T 3" BSR Downpipe (Inside view)

It’s highly recommended to get some new nuts for securing the downpipe.

Volvo S80 2.4T Genuine Parts (Locking Nuts)

Old vs new, look into the differences in the diameter of the neck.

Volvo S80 2.4T 3" BSR Downpipe

Volvo S80 2.4T BSR 3" Downpipe + New Catback

Volvo S80 2.4T BSR 3" Downpipe + New Catback


Volvo S80 2.4T New Engine Mounts

When you have an older car, always think about replacing the engine mounts. They are almost always made of rubber, which becomes brittle over time due to aging/drying out.

I replaced all the engine mounts, which tightens up handling and improves performance and reduces strain on components like the exhaust, as the engine swivels way less. Highly recommended!

Volvo S80 2.4T Engine Mounts

Volvo S80 2.4T Engine Mounts

Volvo S80 2.4T Engine Mounts

Volvo S80 2.4T Engine Mounts


Volvo S80 2.4T Diffuser

Added 2 diffusers to the rear bumper of the S80. Looks very nice and makes the S80 less of a Old Man car haha 🙂

URL: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32853258621.html

Volvo S80 2.4T Diffuser

Volvo S80 2.4T Diffuser


Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Turbo Intake pipe

Replaced the air filter and the turbo intake pipe.

The intake pipe was upgraded to a blue Do88.se / Do88 silicone intake pipe, which is a fair bit larger, but also deletes some bottlenecks from the original part (like the narrowing bend on the bottom and the “harmonica”).

Gives a little bit more power from the butt dyno and noticed more intake growl (which is a good thing) 🙂

Volvo S80 2.4T Do88 Turbo Intake pipe

Volvo S80 2.4T OEM vs Do88 Turbo Intake Pipe

Volvo S80 2.4T OEM vs Do88 Turbo Intake Pipe

Volvo S80 2.4T OEM vs Do88 Turbo Intake Pipe

Volvo S80 2.4T Modified PTC Sensor


Volvo S80 2.4T Dirty vs New Airfilter

Replaced the air filter. This is what a dirty airfilter looks like.

Change it on time, so your car keeps performing at peak efficiency!

Volvo S80 2.4T Dirty vs New Airfilter


Volvo S80 2.4T Painting the Brake Calipers Daytona Yellow

Decided to paint the calipers for extra flair and to be honest it looks way better than that rusty brown color.

Bought some MHW Daytona Yellow paint and combined it with the yellow Prancing moose shield.

Volvo S80 2.4T Painting the Brake Calipers Daytona Yellow

Volvo S80 2.4T Painting the Brake Calipers Daytona Yellow

Volvo S80 2.4T Painting the Brake Calipers Daytona Yellow

Volvo S80 2.4T New Volvo Hubcap Stickers


Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal

Bought me some yellow Prancing Mooses / Moose decal as it’s a Volvo thing to do 🙂

In the meantime, they have been replaced by black “carbon” units, which look better. This will be shown in a later post.

Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal

Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal

Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal

Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal



Volvo S80 2.4T Changing the Interior Combo filter

Needed to change the interior / combofilter and was suprised by this malformed unit.

Looks like someone didnt do their job properly…Shameful really.

Easy DIY job, which shouldn’t take more than half an hour.

Volvo S80 2.4T Changing the Combo filter


Volvo S80 2.4T Soundproofing

When I last performed maintenance to the window sliders, I noticed the doors had not been soundproofed yet. Bought me a big mat on Aliexpress and went to work today.

Door card removal is very easy on the Volvo, so I was done in a very small time frame, which is always nice. The impact of such a simple thing like soundproofing is always noticeable, as the resonance from the tinny doors are removed, which allows for better sounding music + less cabin sound/drone.

Highly recommended & easy to do yourself!

Volvo S80 2.4T Soundproofing

Volvo S80 2.4T Soundproofing


Volvo S80 2.4T Denso Injector Service

Decided to clean and service the stock Denso injectors. Rubber rings get hard and brittle over time and tend to leak. Also the filter baskets might be contaminated over time, especially if the fuel filter is not part of your regular service intervals (which mine S80 lacked…).

I bought this kit of Aliexpress and the quality looks very nice. It contains all the items needed, including a special tool for removing/mounting the filter baskets.

The pictures will speak for themselves (it was needed!).

Volvo S80 2.4T Denso Injector Service
Volvo S80 2.4T Denso Injector Service
Volvo S80 2.4T Denso Injector Service
Volvo S80 2.4T Denso Injector Service

A very old fuel filter.

Volvo S80 2.4T Old Fuel filter





Volvo S80 2.4T Changing Spark Plugs (NGK K20TT 4604)

Fitted some fresh new plugs and decided to try NGK copper plug instead of Volvo OEM Iridium plugs. They work great and cost next to nothing. Decided to try NGK K20TT 4606. Double checked the gap to be sure, they are correctly preset for the Volvo S80 2.4 / 2.5T.

Still have to get used to swapping out 5 spark plugs instead of the “usual” 4.

Volvo S80 2.4T Changing Spark plugs

Volvo S80 2.4T Changing Spark plugs

Volvo S80 2.4T Changing Spark plugs




Volvo S80 2.4T Do88.se Blue Silicone Intercooler Hoses

Replaced some old deteriorated intercooler hoses with new fresh Do88.se blue silicone hoses, which do not collapse anymore. I solved a hiccup when flooring the car from low rpm (due to sturdiness of the new hoses).

Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Intercooler hoses

Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Intercooler hose

Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Intercooler hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Old vs New Silicone hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Old Deteriorated Rubber hose

Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Silicone vs OEM Turbo hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Silicone Intercooler hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Silicone Intercooler hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Engine Bay




Volvo S80 2.4T New Bosch O2 Lambda Sensor

As a car grows older, parts outreach their peak efficiency and should be replaced with new parts. Like the front O2 lambda precat sensor, which has an replacement interval of 250.000km, which my car already replaced sometime ago. Replaced it with a genuine Bosch OEM part. Noticed that my Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT) were dropping, which is a good indicator.

Partnr: 0 258 007 137 / 0258007137

LSU42, LS7137

EAN: 3165143196243

Volvo S80 2.4T Bosch O2 Precat Lambda Sensor

Volvo S80 2.4T Bosch O2 Precat Lambda Sensor

Volvo S80 2.4T Bosch O2 Precat Lambda Sensor




Volvo S80 2.4T Fitting a new Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV)

I noticed some strange behaviour when lifting the throttle and decided to service the CBV aka Compressor Bypass Valve. I was right, car drives a lot better after replacing it with a fresh CBV / DV (Diverter Valve).

I went with an aftermarket TRITDT K5T09671.

Volvo S80 2.4T New TRITDT Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV) repair kit

Volvo S80 2.4T New TRITDT Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV) vs Old

Volvo S80 2.4T New TRITDT Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV) vs Old

Volvo S80 2.4T Fitting a new Compressor Bypass Valve (CBV)




Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing Window Sliders

Easy mod with big results. If you have a Volvo with a choppy window, 9 out of 10, it will be the window sliders. They are quite easy to replace though. Tip: buy them on Aliexpress for cheap!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repairing Window Mechanism

Volvo S80 2.4T Repairing Window Mechanism

Volvo S80 2.4T Repairing Window Mechanism




Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing the Bosch O2 Lambda Sensor

Many people tend to forget that O2 aka Lambda sensors have a replacement interval (in my case 250.000km). Failing to do so will have direct impact on your power and mileage. I checked using Torque (Android app) and checking the Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT). I noticed that they dropped after installing the new Bosch O2 sensor.

Partnr: 0 258 007 137 / 0258007137
LSU42, LS7137
EAN: 3165143196243

Volvo S80 2.4T Bosch O2 Precat Lambda Sensor

Volvo S80 2.4T Bosch O2 Precat Lambda Sensor

Volvo S80 2.4T Bosch O2 Precat Lambda Sensor




Volvo S80 2.4T CAI Intake Modification

Decided to mod the intake flap to a more direct version, which should aid in forcing air into the airbox. Performance could be better, although right now I dont have the means to measure this.

Volvo S80 2.4T Default Air Intake

Volvo S80 2.4T Air Intake Mod




Volvo S80 2.4T LED License Plate Lights

Upgraded / updated the License plate lights to LED versions, which look much better than the stock items. Highly recommended mod!

Volvo S80 2.4T LED License Plate Lights

Volvo S80 2.4T LED License Plate Lights




Volvo S80 2.4T Chrome Indicator Bulbs

Small mod, replacing the orange bulbs with chrome indicator bulbs. Looks better 🙂

 
Volvo S80 2.4T Amber Indicator Bulbs

Volvo S80 2.4T Chrome Indicator Bulbs




Volvo S80 2.4T Repainting All The Trim

When I bought the S80, it was evident that the plastic trim had seen better days. So I decided to spend some time and repaint it black. As expected, it transformed the car tremendously. I highly recommend this!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repainting All The Trim!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repainting All The Trim!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repainting All The Trim!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repainting All The Trim!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repainting All The Trim!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repainting All The Trim!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repainting All The Trim!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repainting All The Trim!




Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing vacuum lines with Silicone Hoses

A highly recommended repair / modification for all older Volvo owners. Replacing the old rubber vacuum lines with strong durable silicone hoses. I bought 3 color hoses (red / black/ blue) as the original hoses also have color stamps on them. Old rubber hoses deteriorate from heat and moisture and will fail over time. Replacing them with silicone hoses ensures a proper running car!

Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing Vacuum Lines




Volvo S80 2.4T Trunk Spoiler

Upgraded the rear with a trunk spoiler (stick-on type) and it looks quite OEM, which I am very pleased with. Doubt it will give me any extra noticeable downforce, but it looks the parts 🙂

20180420_205903_Burst01_1

20180420_205925_1




Volvo S80 2.4T Upgrading Interior Lights with LEDs

To modernize the car and make it more future proof, I decided the replace as much halogen bulbs with LEDs. I didn’t want the 6500k Blueish tint, but instead opted for a warmer white color, which are a little bit more white than their halogen counterparts. Very happy with the end result!

Old

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Vanity Lights LED

And New

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Vanity Lights Halogen

Upgrading the rear light dome cluster

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster

Halogen vs LED

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster Halogen vs LED

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster Halogen vs LED

Warm white Festoon LEDs

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster

Unhooking the tab

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster

End result for the rear light cluster

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear light cluster after LED replacements

Front cluster

Volvo S80 2.4T Front Light Cluster

Volvo S80 2.4T Front Light Cluster




Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing the Upper Engine Mount with SuperPro Polybush

I noticed that when lifting off (like shifting), there was a lot of movement / play in the engine / gearbox. So when I inspected the upper engine mount, I found the root cause rather quickly. The rubber deteriorated and there wasn’t much left of the original rubber bushing.

Having read the other options, like fitting a polybush, I went with the SuperPro version which looked like a good bit of kit. Mounting the new polyurethane kit was quite a breeze. Fortunately, the original bushing has a plastic ring 🙂 The SuperPro kit consists of 2 pieces, which makes the mount very easy to replace.

Result: a much better shifting car, putting the power down goes a lot better now. I will also replace the bottom gearbox mount with a polyurethane version soon.

Very easy job to do at home. This also applies to the S60 and V70, as these are quite identical.

Broken upper engine mount…

Volvo S80 2.4T worn engine mount

Tearing it down

Volvo S80 2.4T Removing the Upper Engine Mount OEM bushing

Volvo S80 2.4T Upper Engine Mount shot OEM bush

Comparing old to new

Volvo S80 2.4T Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount vs OEM top view

Volvo S80 2.4T Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount vs OEM side view

Et voila!

Volvo S80 2.4T Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount completed




Volvo S80 2.4T Chrome Side Indicators

Small modification, getting rid of the fried egg look and replacing them with Chrome / Amber versions does the front of the S80 good. Cost a small amount and looks much cleaner.

Before…

Volvo S80 2.4T Fried egg stock amber bulb

After 🙂

Volvo S80 2.4T Chrome indicator bulb




Vw Golf MK3 GTI, Repaint All The Trim

As the car is quite old, the plastic trim of the car has been exposed to the influence of the sun for countless of times, which greys out the once black plastic trim. I decided to repaint it all, as the grey trim is just plain ugly. The most work was to mask of the rest of the car, the rest was easy 🙂

Work in progress
VW Golf MK3 GTI / Painting the trim matte black again

Ugly greyed out trim…

VW Golf MK3 / Old Grey Trim

VW Golf MK3 / Old Grey Trim




VW Golf MK3 GTI, New Fuel Pump

As the car is about 21 years old, it was about time the fuel pump was renewed. A fuel pump gets old and will be unable to deliver the desired fuel pressure when needed. This will have a big impact on the performance as you might imagine. It took me quite some time as the retaining ring was stuck, like real stuck…

I was finally able to prise it of, but needed to perform some cleaning before putting in the new pump. But it was worth it!

Partnr: 1H0919051AK

Dirty pump
VW Golf MK3 GTI / Replacing the Fuel Pump 1H0919051AK

Fresh new pump!

VW Golf MK3 GTI / Replacing the Fuel Pump 1H0919051AK




VW Golf MK3 GTI, New VW Hubcaps

A small mod with big impact, replacing the old worn hubcaps with fresh new caps. I bought them cheap from eBay.

The old…
Old VW Hubcaps

Old vs New

New vs Old VW hubcaps

New VW Hubcaps

And the final result

New VW Hubcamps




VW Golf MK3 GTI, Steering Wheel Cover

Bought a steering wheel cover, as the steering wheel had seen better days. I have done this mod a couple of times before and was always happy with the result, so no hesitation this time 🙂 Again very pleased with the results. Costs about 5 USD from Aliexpress. I chose black faux leather with red stitching for the VW Golf.

Steering Wheel default / VW Golf MK3 GTI

Work in progress

Steering Wheel cover Work in Progress / VW Golf MK3 GTI

Final result

Steering Wheel Cover added / VW Golf MK3 GTI




VW Golf MK3 GTI, Side Trim Fixed

Fixed the side trim with a new clip, a small change which looks much better 🙂

Side trim fixed

Side trim fixed

Et voila!

Side trim fixed




VW Golf MK3 GTI Mesh Grille

Bought a new grille (without the VW logo), but I didn’t want the one with the double louvres, as that has been tried and tested. I noticed this one from JOM and ordered it. Got a message back from a Dutch webshop that they aren’t able to deliver anymore. Searched and found it on German Ebay, for less than price that the Dutch webshop advertised it for, so happy days 🙂

Partnr: 1H6853653MOE

VW Golf MK3 Mesh Grille

VW Golf MK3 Mesh Grille

VW Golf MK3 Mesh Grille

Golf MK3 GTI Mesh Grille

Golf MK3 GTI Stance

Info:
Camera: Nikon D300 / Nikkor 17-55mm




VW Golf MK3 GTI Airbox Modification

The best airfilter on the Golf MK3 GTI platform is the original airbox with paper filter. But you might miss out on induction noise, something so desired on any naturally aspirated (NA) engine 🙂

There are ways to give you some induction noise, namely:

  • Drilling the airbox
  • Removing the snoot to the side of the car
  • Fitting a (Bonrath) Powerrohr / roar

I bought myself an extra airbox and removed the snoot + drilled extra holes on the cold side of the car.

Stock Airbox

Front view Airbox

Top view Airbox

Removeing the snoot

Trumpet removed

VW Golf MK3 Airbox mod

Fitted a new airfilter

VW GOLF MK3 / New vs Old air filter




Swapping out the VW Golf MK3 GTI Crankshaft Position Sensor

My car was cutting out when the engine was hot. RPM gauge dropped to zero instantly & engine cuts out immediateley. Scanning the car with vagcom / VCDS showed an error with the G28 sensor aka Crankshaft Position sensor. Other names are Engine Speed sensor and in Dutch BDP sensor or krukaspositie sensor.

I followed this video guide, which helped me tremendously, so thank you Thomas EXOVCDS. Took me about an hour on axle stands, so not that bad.




Toyota Aygo Eco badge

As many of you might now, I make a sport out of driving as economical as possible (without being too extreme). As I was searching on Aliexpress, I found this fun badge, which expresses my driving style perfectly. I was able to plug the holes with some plastic grommets.
Toyota Aygo Eco Badge decal

Toyota Aygo Eco Badge decal




VW Lupo 1.4 old sparkplugs replaced

Driving 140km a couple times per week stresses the car more than you would think. Keeping it in tip top shape is important, even more so with an older car like our VW Lupo which was born in 1999 (1.4 16v, engine code AHW). Less than a year when the last service was done, I checked the spark plugs (as it was starting a bit rough). Look at the picture to understand why…

Please note that I needed to wait before the NGK Iridium sparkplugs (type: BKR6EIX-11 3764) were delivered, So I bent the old one, so that the gap was made smaller.

 VW Lupo New NGK Iridum vs Old




Sound Proofing the Aygo

The Aygo has pretty flimsy doors, which don’t help much with the sound quality of your sound system & background noise when you are driving your car. I bought some sound proofing on eBay & added it on the front + rear doors & spare tire well.

Sound quality has been improved greatly & road noise has been reduced. All in all a must have mod for your Toyota Aygo / Peugeot 107 or Citroen C1.

Sound Insulation

Sound Insulation

Toyota Aygo Sound Insulation in door




VW Lupo Luxury Heater knobs / dials

Added some luxury to the Volkswagen Lupo with some new up-to-date heater knobs / dials. They look a lot better than the stock controls and they also feel better when adjusting the controls. Small DIY modification which only cost about 5 dollars on Aliexpress.

VW Lupo Stock heater knobs

And the new parts.
VW Lupo Luxury heater knobs
VW Lupo Luxury heater knobs
VW Lupo Luxury heater knobs

Info:

Camera: Sony Xperia Z3




Toyota Aygo Cree LEDs & Vinyl decal

Replaced the license plate lights with CREE LEDs for better visibility. Thanks to Aliexpress for some good priced CREE LEDs!
Toyota Aygo t10 Cree License plate light

Also bought a vinyl decal to warn other drivers that I’m driving a slow automobile 😉 Especially handy when driving “hypermile” or “ecomodder” style.
Toyota Aygo SlowAsF*ck decal

Info:

Camera: Sony Xperia Z3




VW Lupo DIY Transmission fluid change

Decided it was a good time to change the transmission fluids / oil in the Lupo 1.4 16v (engine code AHW). Transmission oil has probably never been changed (since 1999), so it will only do good in this trusty car. 17mm Hex required, I decided to make my own tool for it. An old 17mm standard wheel bolt with 2 big nuts on the screw end did the trick for me.

I decided for 3 liters of Castrol 75W80 Syntrans V FE (2.7 liters needed). Needed some music, hence the Klipsch Promedia GMX 2.1 speakerset 🙂

VW Lupo 1.4 - DIY Transmission Fluid / Oil Change

The drain plug sits a bit weird as it has very little room for movement.

VW Lupo 1.4 - DIY Transmission Fluid / Oil Change

Use a diameter hose which leaves some room for breathing during refilling.

VW Lupo 1.4 - DIY Transmission Fluid / Oil Change

Refillling is easy and fast.

VW Lupo 1.4 - DIY Transmission Fluid / Oil Change

Gear changing has been improved big time, shouldve done this earlier! This guide also applies to the Seat Arosa.

Nederlandse vertaling

Besloten om de transmissie / bakolie te verversen bij de Lupo 1.4 16v 75PK (motorcode AHW). De olie is waarschijnlijk nog nooit vervangen in 17 jaar tijd (sinds 1999), geen overbodige luxe dus. Je hebt een 17mm hex bout nodig om de bouten los te draaien. Ik heb hiervoor een zelfgemaakte tool gebruikt, een standaard 17mm wielbout met achterop 2 grote moeren. Zorg er altijd (!!!) voor dat je eerst de vulbout loshaalt.

De drain plug zit op een lastige plek, waardoor je niet veel ruimte hebt voor beweging, je moet dan ook vanuit een hoek werken. Na het vullen merk je een mega verschil. Schakelen gaat veel soepeler en het zal wellicht ook merkbaar zijn in het verbruik. Het kost je ongeveer 45-60 minuten om dit zelf te doen.




Toyota Aygo DIY Transmission fluid change

Decided to change the transmission fluid / oil with some fresh new fluids / oil on the Toyota Aygo (also applies to Citroen C1 / Peugeot 107). Can only have a positive effect on changing gears and fuel economy. It’s an easy job which should take you between 30-60 minutes. Fluid used: Castrol 75W90 Syntrans Universal Plus (1.7L needed).

First make sure that you try to undo the filler nut first (always!). The filler nut can be found at the front of the engine, right behind the radiator / fan.

Toyota Aygo - DIY Transmission Fluid Change

This is the location of the draining plug. Has the same size as the filler nut and is easily accessible.

Toyota Aygo - DIY Transmission Fluid Change

After draining (let it drain for 10-15 minutes), redo the draining nut and prepare for refilling. Make sure the diameter of the filling hose is smaller than the filling port, as this will increase the filling speed significantly.

Toyota Aygo - DIY Transmission Fluid Change

This is how I filled the transmission again.

Toyota Aygo - DIY Transmission Fluid Change

Results, super smooth gear changes! Have to comment on fuel economy, as it is too soon to tell.

Nederlandse vertaling

Besloten om de transmissie / bakolie zelf te vervangen met verse olie / vloeistoffen. Kan alleen maar een positief effect hebben op het schakelgedrag en het verbruik van de Aygo. Dit is een klusje wat je prima zelf kan doen en kost je ongeveer 30-60 minuten. Gekozen vloeistof: Castrol 75W90 Syntrans Universal Plus (1.7 liter benodigd voor een schakelbak, 1.4 liter voor een automaat).

Als je een vloeistof kiest, zorg er dan voor dat de vloeistof voldoet aan de API GL-4 standaard.

Zorg er altijd voor dat je de bout van het vulgat eerst loshaalt voordat je de boel laat leeglopen! De bout voor het vullen heeft dezelfde afmeting als de drain plug. Als je gaat bijvullen, zorg dan dat de diameter van de slang een stukje kleiner is dan het vulgat, dat helpt met de snelheid van het vullen.




Toyota Aygo new Dual Exhaust tip

Added a new dual exhaust tip to my trusty Toyota Aygo (Citybug). Not 100% satisfied with the fitment, will need to do some modding to get the look right. But the build quality is a lot better than the old one.
Old vs New

Exhaust tip front view

Exhaust tip rear view

New Toyota Aygo Exhaust tip backside

New Toyota Aygo Exhaust tip overview




Toyota Aygo K&N 57i (57-0669) kit

Via Marktplaats een mooie K&N 57i kit (57-0669) kunnen scoren, die ook gebruikt kan worden op de Citroën C1 of Peugeot 107. Geeft een mooie roffel bij volgas en zou de Aygo weer een stukje zuiniger moeten maken. Dit gaan we uiteraard goed testen!

De kit is lichtjes gemod met een doorzichtige slang voor de carterventilatie (PCV).

Actueel verbruik: Spritmonitor.de
Toyota Aygo K&N 57i Kit

Toyota Aygo K&N 57i Kit closeup

Toyota Aygo K&N 57i Kit PCV hose

De CAI (Cold Air Intake) buis zit in de linker “nier” van de bumper.

Toyota Aygo K&N 57i Kit

Toyota Aygo K&N 57i Kit




Toyota Aygo Boot Leakage Fixed / Solved

Ik had het niet meteen door, maar mn reservewiel ruimte zat vol met water. Ik had de gebruikelijke plekken al afgekit, zoals de aansluiting met de achterlichten en de rubberen dopjes voor de achterklep. Maar nog steeds bleef er (veel) water binnenkomen. Nu las ik een tip over 2 ventilatie gaten achterin en dat was bij mij ook de oorzaak. Ik heb rondom de rubbers veel kit gespoten, zodat de aansluiting op de carosserie nu 100% waterdicht is. Dit was ook de oorzaak van beslagen en bevroren ramen (aan de binnenkant) Probleem opgelost!

Deze tip kan je ook gebruiken voor de Peugeot 107 en/of de Citroën C1 (C ONE)

Haal eerst de achterbumper los, zodat het er zo uitziet. Tip: maak meteen de schoon waar je dalijk niet bij kan.

Aygo Rear Bumper Off

En kit dan rondom deze 2 kitgaten

Aygo Leak tracking

Laten drogen en opgelost!




Toyota Aygo Paint It Black!

Omdat de Aygo zo mooi zwart is en de chromen delen er zo “uitspringen” ben ik van plan om zoveel mogelijk zwart te maken. “Murdered out” zoals ze het in Amerika noemen, ben dan ook al begonnen met de logo’s voor en achter, de badges op de achterkant en de sleutelgaten in beide voordeuren. Zie hier het resultaat 🙂

Logo’s plastidippen

Work in progress

Work in progress

Sleutelgaten spuiten

Work in progress

En het eindresultaat mag er wezen.

Black Toyota logo

Black keyhole

Black Toyota logo

Black Toyota badge




Toyota Aygo Grill Block

Omdat ik zag dat de koelvloeistof temperatuur niet boven de 85 graden uitkwam, ben ik op onderzoek uitgegaan en las dat dit opgelost kon worden door de grille te blokkeren. Ik had het al geprobeerd met de kentekenplaat, maar dit had niet het gewenste effect.

Black Toyota logo

Met aluminium plaat ben ik aan de slag gegaan en heb daarmee beide nieren en de grote grill geblokkeerd met het gewenste resultaat als gevolg.

Grille Block - Work in Progress

Het eindresultaat mag er wezen, de boutjes worden nog zwart gespoten.

 

Grille Block - End result front

Grille Block - End result back




Indesit Wil164 knipperende lampjes oplossing

Net als vele anderen hadden ook wij last van een knipperende lampjes van onze Indesit Wil164 wasmachine. Het duurde soms een halfuur voordat de wasmachine dan toch eindelijk doorging, het leek op een soort russisch roulette…Na wat speurwerk kwam ik op de volgende site uit met een mogelijke oplossing: Indesit WIL 164 lampjes knipperen. De laatste keer dat we de wasmachine aanzetten, duurde het langer dan een uur (met knipperende lampjes) en de machine wilde niet startten. Toen was het moment dan toch echt aangebroken om de printplaat te bekijken.

Haal de machine van de stroom af, sluit de waterkraan af en maak de toevoerslang los (rechtsboven aan de achterkant). Houdt een emmer in de buurt om de slang mee op te vangen. Draai alle kleine kruiskopschroefjes los van de ronde afsluitplaat. Haal linksonder de torx schroef los en haal het doorzichtige afdekplaatje eraf. De print plaat zit linksonder als je achter de machine zit. Klik alle stekkers los (foto maken van tevoren is maybe wel handig zodat je weet hoe alles weer aangesloten moet worden) en klik de printplaat uit de wasmachine. Met een platte schroevendraaier kan je de beschermkappen eraf halen. Als het goed is zal je dan meteen de oorzaak van het probleem zien, de kapotte condensators (bolle hoedjes en wat roest). Deze moeten vervangen worden.

Ik ben bij Boris Electronics in Waalwijk geweest en was welgeteld 1,60 euro kwijt aan onderdelen. Je zal condensators moeten desolderen en daarna weer opnieuw moeten solderen. Tijd benodigd: ligt er aan hoe handig je bent, ik was er wel even zoet mee (weinig soldeer ervaring). Na het vervangen alles weer monteren in omgekeerde volgorde. De wasmachine doet het weer prima en kan er weer een aantal jaar tegenaan! Probeer dit eerst zelf voordat je een monteur inschakelt, het kan je zo vele euro’s schelen! Succes.

[update 17-10-2019]
Onze wasmachine doet het nog steeds na deze kleine reparatie in 2014.

[update 27-05-2020]
Hij doet het nog steeds!

[update 17-06-2022]
Doet het nog steeds prima 🙂

Indesit Wil164 printplaat

Indesit Wil164 kapotte condensatoren

Indesit widl126. Met dank aan ReWiCo.