Replaced the old battery with a fresh new battery. Decided to mount a larger type, as the S80 has room for it.
See the big difference in size, which should account for a little bit more performance and safety as it has a lot more power.
Link to product: https://www.ebay.com/itm/252638760566
Chose a Powerline with the following specifications:
|Capaciteit (C20)||82 Ah|
|Capaciteit (C100)||90 Ah|
|Koude start Amps (EN)||680 A|
|Koude start Amps (SAE)||730 A|
Repaired / cleaned the PCV circuit as I saw a lot of oil in the pressure circuit (also see my previous post: http://www.ducked.nl/blog-entries/volvo-s80-2-4t-dirty-clean-turbo-coldside/ ).
Did a little research and the PCV system is almost always the culprit for such issues.
Decided to buy a complete system although ended up cleaning the existing system and only replacing the oil seperator. The tubing was quite some work, I will save that for another time.
Needed to change the interior / combofilter and was suprised by this malformed unit.
Looks like someone didnt do their job properly…Shameful really.
Easy DIY job, which shouldn’t take more than half an hour.
I noticed some strange behaviour when lifting the throttle and decided to service the CBV aka Compressor Bypass Valve. I was right, car drives a lot better after replacing it with a fresh CBV / DV (Diverter Valve).
I went with an aftermarket TRITDT K5T09671.
Easy mod with big results. If you have a Volvo with a choppy window, 9 out of 10, it will be the window sliders. They are quite easy to replace though. Tip: buy them on Aliexpress for cheap!
Many people tend to forget that O2 aka Lambda sensors have a replacement interval (in my case 250.000km). Failing to do so will have direct impact on your power and mileage. I checked using Torque (Android app) and checking the Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT). I noticed that they dropped after installing the new Bosch O2 sensor.
Partnr: 0 258 007 137 / 0258007137
When I bought the S80, it was evident that the plastic trim had seen better days. So I decided to spend some time and repaint it black. As expected, it transformed the car tremendously. I highly recommend this!
A highly recommended repair / modification for all older Volvo owners. Replacing the old rubber vacuum lines with strong durable silicone hoses. I bought 3 color hoses (red / black/ blue) as the original hoses also have color stamps on them. Old rubber hoses deteriorate from heat and moisture and will fail over time. Replacing them with silicone hoses ensures a proper running car!
As the car has already passed thr 300.000km mark, it’s time for renewing key components, like the Mass Airflow Meter (MAF). Decided to go OEM and opted for a Bosch one.
Restored some low down power, which is good news. Highly recommended!
Partnr: 0 280 218 088 / 0280218088
New vs Old
To modernize the car and make it more future proof, I decided the replace as much halogen bulbs with LEDs. I didn’t want the 6500k Blueish tint, but instead opted for a warmer white color, which are a little bit more white than their halogen counterparts. Very happy with the end result!
Upgrading the rear light dome cluster
Halogen vs LED
Warm white Festoon LEDs
Unhooking the tab
End result for the rear light cluster
I noticed that when lifting off (like shifting), there was a lot of movement / play in the engine / gearbox. So when I inspected the upper engine mount, I found the root cause rather quickly. The rubber deteriorated and there wasn’t much left of the original rubber bushing.
Having read the other options, like fitting a polybush, I went with the SuperPro version which looked like a good bit of kit. Mounting the new polyurethane kit was quite a breeze. Fortunately, the original bushing has a plastic ring 🙂 The SuperPro kit consists of 2 pieces, which makes the mount very easy to replace.
Result: a much better shifting car, putting the power down goes a lot better now. I will also replace the bottom gearbox mount with a polyurethane version soon.
Very easy job to do at home. This also applies to the S60 and V70, as these are quite identical.
Broken upper engine mount…
Tearing it down
Comparing old to new
As the car is quite old, the plastic trim of the car has been exposed to the influence of the sun for countless of times, which greys out the once black plastic trim. I decided to repaint it all, as the grey trim is just plain ugly. The most work was to mask of the rest of the car, the rest was easy 🙂
Ugly greyed out trim…
As the car is about 21 years old, it was about time the fuel pump was renewed. A fuel pump gets old and will be unable to deliver the desired fuel pressure when needed. This will have a big impact on the performance as you might imagine. It took me quite some time as the retaining ring was stuck, like real stuck…
I was finally able to prise it of, but needed to perform some cleaning before putting in the new pump. But it was worth it!
Fresh new pump!
My car was cutting out when the engine was hot. RPM gauge dropped to zero instantly & engine cuts out immediateley. Scanning the car with vagcom / VCDS showed an error with the G28 sensor aka Crankshaft Position sensor. Other names are Engine Speed sensor and in Dutch BDP sensor or krukaspositie sensor.
I followed this video guide, which helped me tremendously, so thank you Thomas EXOVCDS. Took me about an hour on axle stands, so not that bad.
Afgelopen donderdag was het dan zover, de Renault Megane Coupe werd opgehaald en afgevoerd. Pas geleden gaf hij het op, de computer voor het motormanagement had het opeens begeven na trouwe dienst. Reparatie ging meer kosten dan ik de auto waard vond. Wat een vreemde gewaarwording als je auto wordt weggesleept. Hoofdstuk Renault afgesloten, Hoofdstuk Seat geopend.
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