Tag: edition

Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing the Shift Gaiter

Replaced the tatty old shift gaiter with a new universal one. Lubed up the shifter mechanism, happy days 🙂

Forgot to take an result picture 🙁

Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing the Shift Gaiter

Volvo S80 2.4T OEM Rubber Floor Mats

Ditched the old floor mats and bought me some original Volvo rubber mats. They might not look as nice, but they are far sturdier and they are much easier to maintain.

Volvo S80 2.4T OEM Rubber Floor Mats

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV DIY Repair / Service

Repaired / cleaned the PCV circuit as I saw a lot of oil in the pressure circuit (also see my previous post: http://www.ducked.nl/blog-entries/volvo-s80-2-4t-dirty-clean-turbo-coldside/ ).

Did a little research and the PCV system is almost always the culprit for such issues.

Decided to buy a complete system although ended up cleaning the existing system and only replacing the oil seperator. The tubing was quite some work, I will save that for another time.

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair

Volvo S80 2.4T Clean Valves :)

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair

Volvo S80 2.4T PCV Repair

Volvo S80 2.4T Dirty vs New Airfilter

Replaced the air filter. This is what a dirty airfilter looks like.

Change it on time, so your car keeps performing at peak efficiency!

Volvo S80 2.4T Dirty vs New Airfilter

Volvo S80 2.4T Painting the Brake Calipers Daytona Yellow

Decided to paint the calipers for extra flair and to be honest it looks way better than that rusty brown color.

Bought some MHW Daytona Yellow paint and combined it with the yellow Prancing moose shield.

Volvo S80 2.4T Painting the Brake Calipers Daytona Yellow

Volvo S80 2.4T Painting the Brake Calipers Daytona Yellow

Volvo S80 2.4T Painting the Brake Calipers Daytona Yellow

Volvo S80 2.4T New Volvo Hubcap Stickers

Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal

Bought me some yellow Prancing Mooses / Moose decal as it’s a Volvo thing to do 🙂

In the meantime, they have been replaced by black “carbon” units, which look better. This will be shown in a later post.

Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal

Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal

Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal

Volvo S80 2.4T Prancing Moose Decal

Volvo S80 2.4T Changing the Interior Combo filter

Needed to change the interior / combofilter and was suprised by this malformed unit.

Looks like someone didnt do their job properly…Shameful really.

Easy DIY job, which shouldn’t take more than half an hour.

Volvo S80 2.4T Changing the Combo filter

Volvo S80 2.4T Status Quo 25-06-2018

My Volvo S80 2.4T Wasa Limited Edition as it sits per 25-06-2018 (which is already a little while ago!)

Looks different in the meantime, but I just wanted to share this shot.

Volvo S80 2.4T Status Quo 25-06-2018

Volvo S80 2.4T Polyurethane Lower Gearbox Mount

My original gearbox mount was shot and I decided to replace the mount with a brand new reinforced polyurethane mount, which tightens up the shifting and allows for less engine movement, which is better for the exhaust.

One disadvantage, the cabin has added drone due to extra vibration. But the advantages outweigh the one disadvantage, so for me it’s a keeper!

Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Intercooler hoses

Closeup view

Volvo S80 2.4T PU Gearbox mount

Old vs New. The mount should not be able to move like that 🙂

Volvo S80 2.4T New vs Old Gearbox mount
Volvo S80 2.4T New vs Old Gearbox mount

And this is how it looks under the engine. Easy job, 2x 14mm & 2x 18mm nuts.

Volvo S80 2.4T PU Gearbox mount

Volvo S80 2.4T Hella Style Horns

Wanted to see if the Hella style horns would fit the S80. First I painted them white (they were green). Mounting them was easy, but the front looks messy with the horns mounted, so I decided to remove them again.

Volvo S80 2.4T Hella Horns mod (white)

Volvo S80 2.4T Hella Horns mod (white)

But this looks better to be honest…

Volvo S80 2.4T Front view

Volvo S80 2.4T Do88.se Blue Silicone Intercooler Hoses

Replaced some old deteriorated intercooler hoses with new fresh Do88.se blue silicone hoses, which do not collapse anymore. I solved a hiccup when flooring the car from low rpm (due to sturdiness of the new hoses).

Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Intercooler hoses

Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Intercooler hose

Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Intercooler hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Old vs New Silicone hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Old Deteriorated Rubber hose

Volvo S80 2.4T DO88.se Silicone vs OEM Turbo hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Silicone Intercooler hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Silicone Intercooler hose

Volvo S80 2.4T Engine Bay

Volvo S80 2.4T Polybush Gearbox Mount

My front gearbox mount was shot. Found a polybush replacement part which is a easy swap. Remove 4x 18mm bolts, swap the part and tighten the 4x 18mm bolts. Noticed a big improvement in pickup and shift handling. The engine/gearbox is able to move much less, which helps in driveability.

Volvo S80 2.4T PU Gearbox mount

Volvo S80 2.4T New vs Old Gearbox mount

Volvo S80 2.4T New vs Old Gearbox mount

Volvo S80 2.4T PU Gearbox mount

Volvo S80 2.4T Trying Out An Open Cone Filter

I wanted to try an open filter, to hear the induction sound and the blowoff sound. I went with a big velocity stack type filter. Although it sounded nice, I already reverted it and went back to the original airbox.

Volvo S80 2.4T Fitting a Velocity Stack Open Cone Filter

Volvo S80 2.4T Fitting a Velocity Stack Open Cone Filter

Volvo S80 2.4T Fitting a Velocity Stack Open Cone Filter

Volvo S80 2.4T Fitting a Velocity Stack Open Cone Filter

And it looks like this again

Volvo S80 2.4T OEM Airbox

Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing Window Sliders

Easy mod with big results. If you have a Volvo with a choppy window, 9 out of 10, it will be the window sliders. They are quite easy to replace though. Tip: buy them on Aliexpress for cheap!

Volvo S80 2.4T Repairing Window Mechanism

Volvo S80 2.4T Repairing Window Mechanism

Volvo S80 2.4T Repairing Window Mechanism

Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing vacuum lines with Silicone Hoses

A highly recommended repair / modification for all older Volvo owners. Replacing the old rubber vacuum lines with strong durable silicone hoses. I bought 3 color hoses (red / black/ blue) as the original hoses also have color stamps on them. Old rubber hoses deteriorate from heat and moisture and will fail over time. Replacing them with silicone hoses ensures a proper running car!

Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing Vacuum Lines

Volvo S80 2.4T Converting HU-801 to Single DIN / 1DIN

I was missing the option to play my own music using a iPod Classic interface, so decided to convert my HU-801 Volvo headunit to my trusty Pioneer 1DIN / Single DIN using a fascia plate and some converter cables.

I like the original look better, but the functionality of the Pioneer outweighs the look a couple of times, which makes it a no-brainer for me.

Volvo S80 2.4T 1 Din fascia with ISO cabling

Volvo S80 2.4T Work in progress...

Volvo S80 2.4T 1 DIN fascia with pioneer headunit

Volvo S80 2.4T Trunk Spoiler

Upgraded the rear with a trunk spoiler (stick-on type) and it looks quite OEM, which I am very pleased with. Doubt it will give me any extra noticeable downforce, but it looks the parts 🙂



Volvo S80 2.4T IPD Polybush Upper Engine Stabilizer

Cheap and easy mod for a little bit more stability, polybush inserts for the upper engine stabilizer.

Volvo S80 2.4T Polyurethane Upper Engine Stabilizer

Volvo S80 2.4T Upgrading Interior Lights with LEDs

To modernize the car and make it more future proof, I decided the replace as much halogen bulbs with LEDs. I didn’t want the 6500k Blueish tint, but instead opted for a warmer white color, which are a little bit more white than their halogen counterparts. Very happy with the end result!


Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Vanity Lights LED

And New

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Vanity Lights Halogen

Upgrading the rear light dome cluster

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster

Halogen vs LED

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster Halogen vs LED

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster Halogen vs LED

Warm white Festoon LEDs

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster

Unhooking the tab

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear Light Cluster

End result for the rear light cluster

Volvo S80 2.4T Rear light cluster after LED replacements

Front cluster

Volvo S80 2.4T Front Light Cluster

Volvo S80 2.4T Front Light Cluster

Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing the Upper Engine Mount with SuperPro Polybush

I noticed that when lifting off (like shifting), there was a lot of movement / play in the engine / gearbox. So when I inspected the upper engine mount, I found the root cause rather quickly. The rubber deteriorated and there wasn’t much left of the original rubber bushing.

Having read the other options, like fitting a polybush, I went with the SuperPro version which looked like a good bit of kit. Mounting the new polyurethane kit was quite a breeze. Fortunately, the original bushing has a plastic ring 🙂 The SuperPro kit consists of 2 pieces, which makes the mount very easy to replace.

Result: a much better shifting car, putting the power down goes a lot better now. I will also replace the bottom gearbox mount with a polyurethane version soon.

Very easy job to do at home. This also applies to the S60 and V70, as these are quite identical.

Broken upper engine mount…

Volvo S80 2.4T worn engine mount

Tearing it down

Volvo S80 2.4T Removing the Upper Engine Mount OEM bushing

Volvo S80 2.4T Upper Engine Mount shot OEM bush

Comparing old to new

Volvo S80 2.4T Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount vs OEM top view

Volvo S80 2.4T Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount vs OEM side view

Et voila!

Volvo S80 2.4T Polyurethane Upper Engine Mount completed

Volvo S80 2.4T Chrome Side Indicators

Small modification, getting rid of the fried egg look and replacing them with Chrome / Amber versions does the front of the S80 good. Cost a small amount and looks much cleaner.


Volvo S80 2.4T Fried egg stock amber bulb

After 🙂

Volvo S80 2.4T Chrome indicator bulb

Steve Jobs, bedankt…

Vanochtend ontving ik het treurige nieuws dat het grote brein achter Apple is overleden. Als ik vandaag de dag kijk wat voor invloed deze man en zijn consorten heeft gehad op mijn leven, dan kan ik niet anders concluderen dat het groots is geweest.

Op jonge leeftijd werd ik al wegwijs gemaakt in de wereld van de pc’s en het onlosmakelijk verbonden Windows (toen nog versie 3.x). Ik wist toendertijds niet beter en heb jaren achter elkaar gebruik gemaakt van elke versie die er maar bestond, van Windows 98 Second Edition tot het nette Windows 7 64 bits vandaag de dag. Totdat ik de Fotovakschool bezocht en ik wel werd gedwongen om ermee te werken (ik had in de tussentijd wel een iPod gekocht). En warempel, het werkt toch wel erg fijn. Even wennen is het wel (wat wil je met jaren Windows ervaring), maar eenmaal eraan gewend moest ik voor mezelf toch wel erkennen dat OSX in mijn situatie fijner werkt. Wat valt op: het werkt zoveel simpeler en is makkelijker in gebruik.

Die positieve ervaringen nam ik mee in de beslissing toen ik een nieuwe pc of nieuwe laptop wilde aanschaffen. Na veel wikken en wegen heb ik toen een Macbook Pro 15″ Unibody gekocht, waar ik op tot de dag van vandaag geen spijt van heb gehad. De “liefde” voor het merk werd zelfs zo groot dat er binnen korte tijd een iPhone 3G (inmiddels iPhone 4), een Apple Cinema Display en uiteindelijk ook een iMac 27″ kwam. Tegenwoordig ben ik een soort ambassadeur voor Apple geworden, verschillende vrienden en familie heb ik al “geholpen” aan Apple producten.

Neemt niet weg dat Apple niet heilig is, want er zijn genoeg mensen ook de dupe geworden van de bekendheid van Apple. Zoals de vele berichten uit China, waar medewerkers van een Foxconn fabriek zelfmoord pleegden door de te hoge werkdruk als resultaat van de hoge vraag naar iPhones.

Ik vermoed dat de vraag naar Apple producten nu onverminderd zal stijgen, net zoals bij het overlijden van Amy Winehouse er een werkelijke stormloop was op haar (digitale) albums.

Steve Jobs, bedankt…

Steve Jobs 1955-2011

Casio G-Shock Dee & Ricky Limited Edition

Na een tijdje zoeken eindelijk gevonden, ik had al bijna de stap gezet om actief op eBay te gaan bieden, simpelweg omdat het horloge (nog) niet in Nederland verkrijgbaar was. En toen was het eindelijk zover, bestellen, wachten en en en…Eenmaal uitgepakt is hij nog vetter dan op de foto’s die ik tot nu toe had gezien.

Voor diegenen die nog niet bekend zijn met de Casio G-Shock horloges, het is de robuuste serie van Casio. Je zal het niet meteen zien aan het design, maar het horloge zit vol met snufjes. Zo is de kast gemaakt van Resin, verlichting wordt verzocht door een gele LED, die ook automatisch aan kan gaan als het horloge naar het gezicht wordt gedraaid, is het horloge waterdicht tot 200m, wordt er zowel digitaal als analoog de tijd gedisplayed, heeft het horloge een zwart en wit LCD scherm, is het horloge schokbestendig en o.a. voorzien van JIS Class Level 1 bescherming tegen magnetische invloeden.

Foto’s zijn geschoten met een Nikon D300 i.c.m. Nikkor 17-55 f/2.8. Belichting door een Nikon SB-800, aangestuurd door een Pocket Wizard en geshaped door een Snoot + grid.

Casio G-Shock Dee Ricky Limited Edition #1

Casio G-Shock Dee Ricky Limited Edition #2

Casio G-Shock Dee Ricky Limited Edition #3

Casio G-Shock Dee Ricky Limited Edition #4

Speedlink Medusa With Creative Audigy 2 ZS In Windows Vista Fixed!

Deze keer even geen fotografisch gerelateerde Post, maar een technisch georiënteerde Post. Na lang zoeken, veel reboots, forums lezen & driver installaties voltooien kwam vandaag het ultieme moment. Werkend 5.1 geluid uit mn Creative Audigy 2 ZS!

Bad Creative…

Creative heeft binnen korte tijd een slechte naam opgebouwd door de slechte driverondersteuning na de lancering van Windows Vista. Voor de lancering van Vista was het al geruime tijd brak te noemen, maar door essentiële veranderingen m.b.t. geluidsreproductie & aansturing binnen Vista, werd het nog erger dan het al was…De albekende Soundblaster Live! werd afgescheept & op het moment van schrijven worden er alleen nieuwe drivers ontwikkeld voor hun nieuwste telg: de X-Fi.

Dit houdt voor een hele grote groep Audigy gebruikers in dat ze blijven zitten met half werkende drivers (geld ook zelfs voor X-Fi gebruikers) & het moeten betalen om EAX werkend te krijgen in Vista. Enfin…

Speedlink Medusa Pro Gamer Edition

Ik ben al geruime tijd in het bezit van een Speedlink Medusa koptelefoon, een zogenaamde Gamers koptelefoon die 5.1 geluid kan reproduceren. Ik was altijd sceptisch t.o.v. dit concept, hoe kan een echt 5.1 speakersetje nou geëvenaard worden door een koptelefoon? Na aankoop werd ik werkelijk van mn stoel geblazen, de geluidsreproductie is erg goed, afgezien van het feit dat de bass wat harder mag.

De Medusa heeft namelijk een mooie eigenschap dat als binnen Windows een signaal wordt verstuurd naar de Subwoofer, de koptelefoon dit signaal uitfiltert en de koptelefoon laat trillen. De eerste keer dat ik het meemaakte schrok ik er even van, in de de draad van de koptelefoon zit een kastje verwerkt met 4 volumeknopjes nl.

  • Cen Vol (Center Volume)
  • Front Vol(Front Volume)
  • Rear Vol (Rear Volume)
  • Vib Vol (Vibration Volume)

Ik wist dus in eerste instantie niet waar de laatste voor diende, totdat ik in Toca Race Driver 3 over een curbstone reed en de trillingen gewoon voelde! Geniaal :mrgreen: ! Wat ik wilde zeggen is dat deze feature niet meer werkt sinds ik Vista gebruik, wat dus te maken heeft met de driver voor de Audigy 2 ZS. De rest van het stuk zal ik in het Engels schrijven, omdat over de hele wereld wordt gezocht naar een oplossing voor dit probleem.

Creative Audigy 2 ZS + Speedlink Medusa + Vista

If you can’t read Dutch, here’s a short summary: Creative has bad driver support, Vista launch made it worse, Speedlink Medusa vibration doesn’t work because of bad drivers. That’s about it in the above paragraphs 🙂

I use the following components/software

  • Creative Audigy 2 ZS
  • Speedlink Medusa Pro Gamer Edition
  • Windows Vista Ultimate (32Bit)

As we all know, the driver support from Creative has been very sucky. I’ve been using the X-Fi drivers for quite some time now. Although they work ok, I started missing something in the sound reproduction. I then remembered playing Toca Race Driver 3 on Windows XP. When I drover over a curbstone, the Medusa started rumbling. It scared me in the beginning, but when I did it again I began to understand what was happening. This feature really adds to the user/gamer experience, so it simply can’t be missed! Today I finally found an solution for this (really) annoying problem :mrgreen: Read on!

Stage 1 : Preparing

  1. Download the SBA2_PCDrvBeta_LB_2_08_0002 driver here (it has full OpenAL support)
  2. Download the Unofficial Audigy Series Software CD here

Uninstall all the Creative Audigy drivers

  • Click Start
  • Click Control Panel
  • Click Programs and Features
  • Uninstall Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS
  • Check if the Speaker icon in your Traybar (bottom right) has a red cross near it

If above = YES, reboot your system
If above = NO, continue below

  • Open System Properties via “Windows Key + Pause/Break” or right click the System icon on your desktop & click Properties
  • Click Device Manager
  • Expand Sound, video and game controllers by clicking “+”
  • Right click Creative Audigy 2 ZS or something alike
  • Click Uninstall
  • Tick “Delete the driver software for this device
  • Reboot your system

After the reboot it’s time to install the driver.

Stage 2 : Installing The Driver

If you see a message regarding searching for new drivers for your Audigy, click “Ask me again later” and continue reading below.

  • Open Windows Explorer
  • Navigate to the folder where you’ve saved the driver in Stage 1
  • Run the Installer
  • Reboot when asked

After the driver installation, the biggest step will be correctly configuring it.

Stage 3 : Configuring

You should’ve heared the Vista startup sound by now, so things are looking good 😉 We’re almost there!

  • Click Start
  • Click All Programs
  • Click Creative
  • Click Creative Audio Console (Audio Console is mandatory!)
  • Click tab Speakers
  • Select 5.1 Speakers from the dropdown menu
  • Make sure the Synchronize with Microsoft Windows Control Panel is unticked or it won’t work (very very very important!!!)
  • You can check the other tabs if you like, then click Close

Ducked.nl - Creative Audio Console

You also have to check the Sound settings from Vista itself:

  • Right click the Speaker icon in the tray
  • Click Playback Devices
  • Click Speakers
  • Click Configure

You will only see Mono or Stereo, this is why it’s so important to untick the option to Synchronize the settings with Control Panel.

  • Click Cancel
  • Click Properties
  • Click tab Tone & adjust to your liking (most likely the values will be like -192.0 / -96.0 / 0.0 dB, it doesn’t pose a problem though )
  • Click tab Levels
  • I have set Play Control & Wave to about 80%
  • Click tab Advanced (16 bit, 48000hz (DVD Quality, both check boxes are ticked)
  • Click OK

If you haven’t already installed the Audigy Tools, load the ISO (with Daemon Tools/Alcohol/etc) from Stage 1 & fire up the installer with Windows XP compatibility (I’ve read this somewhere, but forgot where & why…).

  • Open Windows Explorer (Cancel the installer if you have Autoplay enabled)
  • Right click Setup.exe
  • Click Properties
  • Click tab Compatibility
  • Tick Run this program in compatibility mode for:
  • Choose Windows XP (Service Pack 2)
  • Click OK
  • Double click Setup.exe
  • Choose Region + Language
  • Click Next
  • Uncheck Creative Mediasource
  • Click Next
  • Choose Custom Installation

It is of great importance you only check some tools which you think will be needed. Also, uncheck Windows Audio Driver, or you will have to start all over again… The most vital is THX Setup Console, which allows us to test the vibration properly & configure the settings needed for vibration, all bundled in one tool.

  • After the installation, click Finish
  • Reboot isn’t necessary! So don’t do it 🙄
  • Click Start
  • Click Creative
  • Click Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS
  • Click THX Setup Console

Some fine tuning is needed, before we can test & enjoy 😉

Stage 4 : Fine Tuning

Almost there, hang in there 😎

Check the default settings

  • Speaker Selection : 5.1 Speakers
  • Digital Output Sampling Frequency : 48 kHz
  • Front Center Channel Position : Below Monitor (Don’t know if it makes a difference…)
  • Click tab Calibration
  • Adjust to your liking
  • Click tab Bass Management
  • Tick Enable Bass Redirection
  • Crossover Frequency: 200Hz
  • Subwoofer Level : 100%

Ducked.nl - Creative Audio Console

Before you are going to test the settings, grab your Medusa & check the Volume settings before you’re going to inflict some hearing damage. I have mine configured with the following settings:

  • Cen Vol : 3
  • Front Vol : 3
  • Rear Vol : 3
  • Vib Vol : 10

The reason Vib Vol is at it’s maximum, because I haven’t figured out a way to boost the Subwoofer signal. Other Audigy/X-Fi owners have the option “+15 Db Gain” in Bass Management or so, but I haven’t found this option yet. If you do, please let me know!

Stage 5 : Test & Enjoy!

To test the settings:

  • Tick Enable Bass Test Noise
  • Click the Subwoofer in the picture (big black box in the top)
  • Enjoy the Vibration!

I have tested it in Gears of War, what a good game. The added vibration makes it even better imho! I hope this guide will also work for you.

Please let me know if this helps! Happy gaming 😉