Monthly archives: August, 2017
I snapped off the neck of the oil seperator, which fell into the engine and needed to be extracted off course. Time to remove the rocker cover and do a little inspection. Everything looked ok, no signs of sludge or weird marks or so.
Bought a new grille (without the VW logo), but I didn’t want the one with the double louvres, as that has been tried and tested. I noticed this one from JOM and ordered it. Got a message back from a Dutch webshop that they aren’t able to deliver anymore. Searched and found it on German Ebay, for less than price that the Dutch webshop advertised it for, so happy days 🙂
Camera: Nikon D300 / Nikkor 17-55mm
The best airfilter on the Golf MK3 GTI platform is the original airbox with paper filter. But you might miss out on induction noise, something so desired on any naturally aspirated (NA) engine 🙂
There are ways to give you some induction noise, namely:
- Drilling the airbox
- Removing the snoot to the side of the car
- Fitting a (Bonrath) Powerrohr / roar
I bought myself an extra airbox and removed the snoot + drilled extra holes on the cold side of the car.
Removeing the snoot
Fitted a new airfilter
My car was cutting out when the engine was hot. RPM gauge dropped to zero instantly & engine cuts out immediateley. Scanning the car with vagcom / VCDS showed an error with the G28 sensor aka Crankshaft Position sensor. Other names are Engine Speed sensor and in Dutch BDP sensor or krukaspositie sensor.
I followed this video guide, which helped me tremendously, so thank you Thomas EXOVCDS. Took me about an hour on axle stands, so not that bad.
And then it was time for a change, a new car. But it didn’t go smoothly, not at all. I traded my 2009 Toyota Aygo with a Volkswagen (VW) Golf MK3 GTI 2.0 8v (1996, AGG engine code), after having an extended test drive which didn’t show any weird signs. Car handled nicely, especially for that age.
But on the way back it broke down, RPM gauge dropped instantly and car died (electrics worked though). Long story short, I was pulled back home and was able to fix the issue a day or two later by swapping out the Crankshaft Position sensor (G28) and as a precaution, I also swapped out the Fuel Pump Relay (nr 30).
So a little bit of a headache & mixed feelings later, I am still very happy with my swap!
Back home (finally!)
- Volvo S80 2.4T Replacing vacuum lines with Silicone Hoses
- Volvo S80 2.4T Converting HU-801 to Single DIN / 1DIN
- Volvo S80 2.4T Trunk Spoiler
- Volvo S80 2.4T New OEM Bosch MAF
- Volvo S80 2.4T IPD Polybush Upper Engine Stabilizer
- Volvo S80 2.4T Upgrading Interior Lights with LEDs
- Volvo S80 2.4T 4D Carbon Wrap The Grille
- Andy Ramdin: Hi Cor, mooi om te horen. Ik denk dat je even het boardje zelf moet inspecteren voor...
- Cor: ik heb het zelfde probleem ook gehad, en je tips werkte fantastisch. hij heeft weer jaren...
- Andy Ramdin: Top, mooi dat er weer iemand zn wasmachine heeft kunnen redden (en veel geld heeft...
- Kevin: Gisteren aan de slag geweest met mijn widl126 was/droog combi. Werkte fantastisch!...
- Arnold de Heer: Elco’s zijn plat/ok
- Arnold de Heer: Ik heb het inmiddels kunnen vinden.. Is binair, dus lampje 1 knippert is code 1,...
- Andy Ramdin: Hi Arnold, dat weet ik helaas niet. Ik heb ze ook niet kunnen vinden.